After the Mirror Lakes the road passes Cascade
Creek and then Lake Gunn, a beautiful small lake set among bush
and framed by the western mountains. The road then climbs the
Divide and from there stretching northward is the Hollyford Valley,
one of the most beautiful in New Zealand and the setting for one
of Fiordlands justifiably famous walks.
From here the road then descends steeply to the
west, offering tremendous views of the peaks and precipices of
the upper Hollyford Valley, dominated by the 2502-metre peak of
Mt Christina. It continues westward up the Upper Hollyford to
the Homer Tunnel, emerging into the bush of the Cleddau Valley
and then follows the river down to Milford Sound.
Milford Sound offers the best fiord scenery in
the Southern Hemisphere, and there is not much in the Northern
Hemisphere to rival it. A boat trip around the fiord will enable
you to take in the best of the other natural features of Milford
Sound: the snow-capped heights of Mt Pembroke; the Bowen Falls
cascading from their high hanging valley; and the Lion dropping
sheer-sided into the fiord depths. Superb views of Mitre Peak
can be had from the head of the fiord, and fur seals are often
to be spotted sun-basking on the rocks. Also found here are the
little blue penguin and the Fiordland crested penguin whose colourful
crown of yellow head-feathers, combined with bright reddish-brown
eyes, have earned it the sobriquet the 'punk-rocker' of the penguin
world.
Running into Milford Sound is the Sinbad Valley
and until only a few years ago this was home to the last kakapo
to survive on the mainland.
A fair bit of publicity was given to Don Mertons
efforts to obtain from the government the $30,000 necessary to
catch the two remaining birds and move them to safety, but this
was to be in vain - by the time the money had been raised, the
birds had gone.
Piopiotahi in Milford Sound is the source of
a soft, translucent stone known as tangiwai, which was prized,
like greenstone, by the Maori for use in ornaments and they journeyed
here from considerable distances to gather it. The name Piopiotahi
means 'one piopio' and is yet another poignant reminder of our
lost birds.
There are other points of note for the naturalist
in Milford Sound. The white-eye (also known as the silver-eye
or wax-eye) was first noticed here in 1832, presumably not long
after it arrived from Australia, and from here it began its northern
spread. By 1856 it had become established in Canterbury and Nelson;
by 1863 it had reached Wanganui; in 1865 it was observed in Auckland
and then in the Bay of Islands in 1867.
Ten moose were liberated here after being imported
from Canada in 1909. Their descendants are probably still in Fiordland
but their numbers are very low - probably about 25 animals scattered
over some 400 square kilometres. Only five are known to have been
shot by hunters, the first in 1929 and the last in 1952.