rom Queenstown there are two routes north to Wanaka - the end of our journey through Fiordland. The main route is State Highway 6 which follows the banks of the Clutha River through Cromwell, Lowburn, Mt Pisa, Queensberry and Luggate. Generally, the countryside around here seems run-down and barely economically viable. The farms seem poor and weeds such as hartetail clover, scabweeds and sorrel are common. Colourful Californian poppies can be seen in many places where there are old mine tailings. Near Luggate, a spectacular series of terraces can be seen where the Clutha River has cut into the layers of gravel.

By comparison, the alternative route along State Highway 89 via the Crown Range and Cardrona Valley is more spectacular. Closed during the winter months, it is only for people with strong nerves and even stronger vehicles. Yet there are stunning views from the Crown Terrace, above the Arrow Basin, and again from the pass over the range, which at 1121 metres is the highest main road in the country. From here the green waters of the Kawarau River can be seen snaking their way along their course far below.

Gold was discovered at Cardrona also but little remains there now to show for it. Further down the road, about 5.5 kilometres from Wanaka, is a marvellous view of Mt Aspiring soaring to 3036 metres in the north-east.

Lake Wanaka and the adjoining Lake Hawea fill glaciated valleys and this can be clearly seen in the smoothed and rounded hills surrounding the lakes, contrasting with the sharper peaks above them.

In a hot summer it can be dry and bleak around Wanaka and in winter when the lakeside trees lose their leaves their skeletal forms bestow a drear and desolate aspect to this lake. But in spring, Wanaka is enchanting. Take the road from Wanaka to Glendhu Bay at this time and you can enjoy the trees that fine the road. These are mainly exotics - willows, poplars, maples and limes - but there are also kowhai, all giving charm to the countryside.

From Wanaka the road to the West Coast takes you along the shores of Lakes Hawea and Wanaka, then follows the course of the Makarora River before climbing to Haast Pass, the gateway to the coast.