e Kaha, once a dairying area, is today a
flourishing horticultural centre. Up to the 1920s whaling was also important. The local
Whanau-a-Apanui people had their own whaling business and used to row out from shore in
pursuit of migrating whales (the last was hand-harpooned here in 1925). For many years two
ribs from a whale formed an archway in front of a local church, but these have now been
moved to the Whakatane Museum.
From Te Kaha it is only a drive of nine kilometres to Omaio. Here the Haparapara River
(which joins the Waikakariki River before flowing into Omaio Bay) is considered to be of
particular importance by biologists as it is now the only major river in the country
without introduced fish. This gives them an opportunity to study freshwater fauna, such as
the galaxid fishes, unaffected by foreign competition.
It is less than 10 kilometres from Omaio to the Motu, the principal
river of the region. One meaning of Motu is "isolated" and it certainly is,
rising in the rugged Raukumaras and winding its tortuous way to the sea through some of
the most rugged, trackless bush found anywhere. The river provides canoeing and rafting
trips and once each year a run of kahawai occurs off the river mouth, and the Maori still
gather here to catch them.
Although game was late arriving here, it is now prolific and causing
extensive damage to the bush in the hinterland. Massive slips and erosion have resulted,
causing great amounts of sediment to flow into the Motu, killing off much of the aquatic
life. Red deer, pigs, goats and feral cattle are all found, along with countless numbers
of possums and this area is now a popular destination for hunters. The pigs are
particularly sought after, but any resemblance between these animals and the domesticated
Landrace or Tamworth is remote indeed.
From the Motu the road runs through farmland, but the brooding presence
of the Raukumaras is a constant backdrop. At Opape at low tide it is possible to walk
around the rocks and many shells can be found on the beach. Most are bi-valves but good
specimens of volutes and several other species are also to be found. A walk around the
rocks will take you to cliffs where nesting black-backed gulls and various shags can be
seen in the pohutukawa overhanging the sea. After Opape the typical East Coast scenery
ends and a drive of about 15 kilometres through farmland will take you to Opotiki, and the
beginning of the Bay of Plenty.