o take the inland route, leave Gisborne and
head towards Matawai. The road travels through vineyards, market-gardens and dairy farms
to Te Karaka. With its large orange berries and big, glossy leaves, the karaka is among
the most distinctive of our trees. It was an important food for the Maori and karaka
groves often indicate former pa sites. The berries are poisonous without long and careful
preparation; the Maori would boil the berries several times, pouring away the water each
time until the pulp was safe to eat.
The Waipaoa River, which causes many disastrous floods on the flatlands
near Gisborne, flows through Te Karaka and a drive up the river valley reveals the extent
of the damage caused by Cyclone Bola.
The Matawai area is the demesne of the magpies, which now reign over
virtually all the cleared country, terrorising other bird species and, according to the
locals, causing a decline in the numbers of tui and kereru found hereabouts. They even
harry the harrier, the largest of our hawks, and it is now a common sight to see one
fleeing from an irate pair of nesting magpies.
One of the few native birds that is flourishing between Te Karaka and
Matawai and on into the Waioeka Gorge is the paradise duck (putangitangi). Many ponds for
watering stock have been constructed in this area in recent years and virtually every one
of these ponds now has a pair of resident paradise ducks. The paradise duck is one of the
few birds in New Zealand that is sexually dimorphic - that is, with differing plumage for
each sex. It gathers in large flocks in winter and congregations of many hundreds of ducks
are commonly seen on recently harvested maize fields near Otoko, although many farmers
consider them to be pests as they foul pastures.
Apart from the paradise ducks, harrier hawks, fantails, kingfishers and
the occasional pipit, almost all the birds you will find near Matawai are introduced
species. Finches, blackbirds and thrushes abound and starlings are once again appearing as
magpies rout their foe the mynah, an enthusiastic competitor with the starling for nesting
sites.
Near Wairata, the bush returns and with it the native birds. At this
altitude of almost 800 metres the typical rimu-rata-tawa bush of the lower altitudes gives
way to the rimu-beech forests of the mountains. The birds here include such bush species
as kereru, tui, bellbirds, tits, robins, falcons, whiteheads and riflemen can all be found
in this area, although the numbers of these last two species are now diminishing. Kaka
still occur, but if you want to see or hear them it is best to heed the Maori proverb 'Kua
taki te kaka' and be up early. This translates as 'The kaka has called' and means that
dawn has arrived.