rom
the MacKenzie Country we pass over the Lindis Pass to Central
Otago. From Omarama, State Highway 8 follows the Ahuriri River
and turns south up Longslip Creek to reach the pass. Although
long familiar to the Maori who passed here on their way to the
West Coast seeking greenstone, the first Pakeha to go through
this area was the Otago surveyor John Turnbull Thomson who arrived
in December 1857 and named the area after the island of Lindisfarne
off the coast of Northumberland.
The view from the pass is remarkable with tussock-covered
mountains stretching off into the vast distances. There is little
in the way of larger vegetation apart from a few patches of matagouri
and sweet briar and some willows along the stream. Otherwise everywhere
there is tussock. Considering the amount of tussockland that is
to be found throughout Otago, Canterbury and the Southern Alps,
it has received extremely little recognition as a distinct and valuable
ecosystem. Until recently less than 10 hectares of more than a million
in the Otago area had reserve status.
There are few birds either. By leaving the road
and remaining quiet you may see the chukar. The scarce falcon, or
karearea, can also sometimes be seen, its piercing whistle or scream
often betraying its presence before it comes into sight. Pipits
are particularly common and these are the main prey of the falcon
together with an occasional young rabbit. The harrier is also found
here and it feeds on rabbits as well.
About 15 kilometres south of the pass is Morven
Hills Station. This was one of the largest stations in the South
Island, covering some 161,844 hectares and was started around 1859
by the brothers John and Allan McLean. By 1874, when they sold it,
they had built their flock to an impressive 135,154 sheep.
Near the summit is a plaque commemorating the release
in this area of seven red deer which had been imported from Scotland.
From Morven Hills they spread in all directions with devastating
results. But these were not the only deer liberated in the province:
in 1867 axis deer were brought from Melbourne and released at Bushey
Park but proved such a nuisance by raiding crops that they were
shot by local farmers. Fallow deer were the next to arrive and had
better luck, being released in the Tapanui Hills from where they
have spread widely.
From the summit our route follows State Highway
8 which takes us down alongside the Clutha River to Cromwell and
thence to Clyde, Alexandra and Roxburgh. The Clutha is fed by the
three lakes Wakatipu, Wanaka and Hawea - which contribute to the
Cluthas flow of 650 cubic metres per second, the largest flow
rate in the country. In its higher reaches near Lake Wanaka it is
a favoured spot with anglers for its rainbow and brown trout.
An early archeological find near the Clutha in
1892, and now in the Otago Museum, was a waka huia, or carved box
of huia feathers. While sheltering in a cave near Talla Burn, on
the opposite side of the Clutha from Rae's junction, George Rae
saw what he thought was a piece of sacking in a dry crevice. On
closer examination this turned out to be the waka huia, which contained,
as well as 70 huia feathers, 20 bunches of scarlet kaka feathers.
It has been suggested they were brought from the north to be used
in exchange for greenstone.
Near Cromwell lives one of our rarest known insects,
the Cromwell cock-chafer beetle, which is confined to a small fenced
area in a reserve near the town. It is not a particularly impressive-looking
insect and although it does not get the recognition of our larger
endangered species like dolphins and birds, it deserves protection
notwithstanding. A rubbish dump is situated near the reserve and
it is feared that the seagulls and rats that such dumps attract
could endanger the beetles.
Most of this area was once a hive of activity as
thousands of miners worked their claims. Large volumes of gold were
extracted with large amounts of earth and rock being moved to get
at it and many of the scars are still visible today. The most recent
tailings are white, devoid of vegetation, but the older areas are
gradually being covered by adventive scrub and willows.