ontinuing
along the south coast brings you to the beautiful Tautuku Bay.
The golden crescent of sand is separated from dense forest by
a narrow strip of scrub and the contrast between sand and forest,
all framed by a blue sky on a fine day, is glorious.
Opposite the beach, about halfway along, is a
track that leads to a beautiful pool in a splendid sylvan setting,
rather grandly known as Lake Wilkie. Just across from the Lake
Wilkie signpost can be found the Taurekei Forest Reserve. This
is 550 hectares of choice bush which has been preserved by the
Forest and Bird Society.
Continuing along State Highway 92 through Quarry
Hills, Tokanui and Fortrose brings you at last out onto the extensive
plains surrounding Invercargill, and only a short distance from
the Waituna wetlands, regarded as among the most important in
the country. Here, just a few metres from the southern ocean,
grows one of the finest assemblages of alpine plants to be found,
including cushion bog, creeping lily, comb-sedge, purple orchids
and bladderworts. These are all plants you would normally expect
to see high in the mountains, but it does not take long to find
out why they are growing here. Stand still for a few minutes and
you will catch a full blast of wind which feels as though it is
straight off the polar cap. - Waituna is probably best known for
its birdlife. In summer as many as 17 migratory wader species
come here from the Northern Hemisphere and together with these
are numerous residents. Considering that Waituna is about as far
south as a migratory wader can get, the number of rarities which
show up here is extraordinary. Local ornithologists have seen
in recent years Mongolian dotterels, grey plovers, sanderlings
and Asiatic whimbrels - all rare visitors to New Zealand and seldom
recorded elsewhere.
Nearby Invercargill is more interesting than
beautiful. It is known for its invigorating climate and the wide
streets have been cunningly designed so that less robust northerners
can enjoy the wind to the full. There are numerous parks and gardens
and in less bracing weather wandering among them is pleasant.
The Southland Museum has an interesting collection of fossilised
logs and in the museum itself is something called a Tuatarium
which is self-explanatory.
Invercargill is the centre of an extensive mixed-farming
area. In spring there are lambs in their thousands but these are
subject to the vagaries of the Southland weather. The last time
I travelled through Southland was by train during a particularly
long spell of wet and cold weather and dozens of lambs were dead
in the paddocks.
There are numerous rivers throughout Southland
and these are popular with whitebaiters in the spring who catch
these tiny fish as they make their way upstream. They are also
popular with many birds who come from the north each year to breed.
Spur-wing plovers first appeared hereabouts on their arrival from
Australia about 40 years ago and have since spread northwards.
Magpies are, on the other hand, spreading south and have in recent
years extended their range into Southland. They are aggressive
and predatory birds and with luck Foveaux Strait will act as a
barrier to their colonising Stewart Island.