mmediately
offshore from New Plymouth is the Sugar Loaf Islands Marine Park.
Numerous fish are found here together with fur seals which come
ashore in the non-breeding season. As the islands are free of rats
they are a haven for birds, with nine species of nesting seabirds,
including black-backed and red-billed gulls, white-fronted tems
and at least three types of petrel. The Sugar Loaves themselves
are the eroded stumps of what is probably Taranaki's oldest volcano,
which was active about one million years ago.
Being one of the westernmost points of the mainland and thus
the closest to Australia, Taranaki is often the landing point
for wind-blown strays from across the Tasman. The first recorded
sightings for spinetailed swifts were from Taranaki - first at
Manaia in 1888 and then at New Plymouth in 1915.
From everywhere in Taranaki the majestic cone of Mt Taranaki
dominates the landscape and photographs of the mountain with a
contented cow in the foreground have become one of the cliches
of coffee-table books.
Although there is little sign of volcanic activity today, Mt
Taranaki should be regarded as dormant rather than extinct. It
has been the site of much volcanic activity, the most recent eruption
taking place around AD1775. By volcanic standards this seems to
have been fairly mild, but the eruptions that took place around
AD 1500 and 1665 were much more violent and most of the vegetation
that now clothes the upper areas of the mountain has grown since.
The perfect symmetry of Taranakis cone is marred when seen
from certain angles by the large subsidiary peak, rather like
a shoulder, on its southwestern slopes. This is Fanthoms Peak,
named for Fanny Fantham who in March 1889, aged 19, became the
first woman to climb it.
At various altitudes on Mt Taranaki, differing types of vegetation
can be found. The lower slopes have typical broadleaf-podocarp
forest and although this appears to be dominated by rata and rimu
there are kamahi, mahoe and tree fuchsia as well. Further up the
mountain these trees gradually give way to totara and kaikawaka,
the bush in turn giving way to scrub such as leatherwood. Higher
up the scrub is replaced by small herbaceous mountain plants.
These include some endemic mountain daisies and a rare fem, Polystichum
cystostegia, which flourishes in rockstrewn gullies. A number
of roads provide access to the mountain, with walking tracks leading
from them. Also on the slopes of the mountain is the Pukeiti Rhododendron
Trust, which boasts a fine collection of introduced trees and
shrubs.
Yet it was fossils of moa and other birds that attracted a number
of early naturalists to the province. In January 1847 Walter Mantell,
while searching for moa bones, made a large find of fossils near
Ohawetokutoku Pa, situated to the south of Mt Taranaki. Among
the many moa remains were the bones of a bird at that stage unknown
to Europeans, the takahe. Less than a year later this bird was
officially described by Dr Richard Owen in London and named after
Mantell.
According to Maori tradition, a moa lived on the heights of Mt
Taranaki with two giant lizards. In 1839 the German geologist
Ernst Dieffenbach, accompanied by two Maori guides, attempted
to climb Taranaki. On reaching the snow-line, the guides refused
to continue. Dieffenbach wrote:
The mountains are peopled with mysterious and misshapen animals;
the black points, which the Maori sees from afar in the dazzling
snow are fierce and monstrous birds; a supernatural spirit breathes
on him in the evening breeze, or is heard in the rolling of
a loose stone.
Even today rumours persist of extinct birds being found alive
in the remoter areas of Taranaki. Moa, whekau, piopio, huia and
tieke have all been reported at one time or another, and some
of these reports have appeared authentic enough for the authorities
to have checked them. In fact, Taranaki was outside the known
historical range of the huia, even though there are two Place
names incorporating 'huia in the area - Wharehuia (the house
of the huia) near Stratford, and Huiakama (nimble huia) on the
Whangamomona road, which would seem to indicate they were once
found there.