round
central Westland gold-mining has devastated much of the land.
Once-fertile riverflats worked over by gold dredges are now piled
high with vast heaps of useless boulders and tailings. The land
here lies stripped and ruined. Decades have done little to disguise
the scars of their handiwork and centuries will do little more.
Nothing much remains now of the colour of the gold rush except
in such place names as Notown, Deadmans Flat, Candlelight,
Nil Desperandum, Swipers and Pretty Woman.
In the many areas where there are no farms or
old goldfields, the bush stretches up from the lowlands to the
hills in a green carpet and seems as untouched and untrammelled
as when the tangata whenua first arrived. This is not so. Dead
rata and other trees such as kamahi can be seen clearly from any
vantage point - victims of Westland's share of our estimated 60
- 70,000,000 possums. Pigs, deer and goats wander unchecked over
vast areas destroying saplings and regenerating undergrowth.
The forests that once rang with birdsong are
now too often silent, the birds having fallen victim to cats,
rats and stoats and one is only too aware that even with the best
will in the world and even with unremitting effort and limitless
finances nothing can ever again be as it once was.
It is as William Pember Reeves wrote in 'The
Passing of the Forest':
Gone are the forest birds, arboreal things,
Eaters of honey, honey-sweet of song,
The tui and the bell-bird - he who sings
That brief, rich music we would fain prolong,
Gone the wood-pigeon's sudden whirr of wings;
The daring robin, all unused to wrong.
Wild, harmless, hamadryad creatures, they
Lived with their trees, and died, and passed away.
It was to the areas so popular with the miners
that the Maori also once came for greenstone. Rivers between the
Hokitika River and Greymouth were particularly prized for the
greenstone that they yielded. The Taramakau River had in pre-Pakeha
days a jade-working site near the river mouth. It produced large
quantities of jade in a variety of types and quantities, including
some of the prized kawakawa and inanga varieties, and many artifacts
have turned up here as a byproduct of dredging operations.
The Arahua field produced a paler jade, more
of the type favoured by Chinese, and the strong green kawakawa
variety is not so often found here. Many hundreds of tons have
been found here too, both by Maori and Pakeha prospectors.
The Pakeha prospectors who came to this area
were a more pragmatic lot than the pioneers of Canterbury and
Nelson and had less time for the fripperies of civilisation such
as hunting and gardening, so fine old exotic trees such as those
that grace many parts of the east coast are mostly absent here.
Instead, many of the exotic trees to be seen
here date from 1932 when the steamer Abel Tasman, carrying
a consignment of trees from New Plymouth to Australia, was wrecked
at the mouth of the Grey River. Large numbers of trees were sold
to the locals at one shilling each. One exotic tree that does
date from much earlier, probably from the days of the goldrush,
is a common lime just outside of Arahura, which is regarded by
tree fanciers as the best example in the Southern Hemisphere.