n the hills behind Barrytown, 34 kilometres from Greymouth, nests one of the world's rarest seabirds, the Westland black petrel. This bird, once called the Westland shoemaker because of its distinctive call, survives only here in perilously low numbers but the sooty shearwater which once also nested here has now vanished. Yet in the hilly Paparoa Range, as well as in the Papahoe or Twelve Apostles ranges, which lie inland from the road, there are still birds to be seen and heard and there is a wide range of vegetation of interest to the botanist. The great spotted kiwi is found here in moderate numbers but the other two kiwi species seem to have vanished. It seems to have been the great spotted kiwi to which Charles Douglas referred when he wryly noted:

I have very little to say regarding this bird, as I have only seen two of them, and being pushed with hunger, I ate the pair of them: under the circumstances I would have eaten the last of the Dodos.

It is all very well science lifting up its hands in horror at what I once heard called gluttony, but let science tramp through the Westland bush and swamps, for two or three days without food, and find out what hunger is. Besides, at the time, which was many years ago, I was not aware that it was an almost extinct bird. Had I known so I would have at least skinned it and kept the head and feet.

Judging by the number of roadside casualties, this would seem to be a prime possum habitat. Harrier hawks find these easy pickings much to their liking and can often be seen flapping unhurriedly away at the approach of vehicles.

The Punakaiki or Pancake Rocks 15 kilometres further on from Barrytown are a popular tourist destinauon. Strangely sculpted columns of limestone rocks, they trap the incoming surf and funnel it upwards in explosive and spectacular bursts. Seal Island, some 7.5 kilometres distant along State Highway 6, although probably named for its shape, has resident fur seals and these can be seen from the signposted track running from the beach.